Embroidery may seem like a straightforward process, but as anyone in the garment decoration industry knows, it involves a lot of moving parts. Recently, on the Let’s Get Printing podcast, Zack Dewhurst, Business Development Manager at DecoNetwork, sat down with embroidery expert Erich Campbell, host of The Takeup podcast, for an insightful conversation packed with tips and tricks to help embroidery enthusiasts, whether seasoned or just starting, master their craft.
Meet The Expert: Erich Campbell
Erich Campbell is not just any embroidery professional—he’s a veteran with over 25 years in the industry, best known for his work on iconic shows like Breaking Bad and Better Call Saul. On top of that, he hosts his own podcast, The Takeup, where he dives into the world of embroidery every week. Erich’s extensive experience and love for the craft make him the go-to guy for anyone looking to perfect their embroidery skills.
The Basics Of Embroidery: What You Need To Know
Embroidery is more than just pushing a needle through the fabric. It involves understanding the materials, equipment, and techniques needed to ensure a high-quality final product. Here are the essentials that Erich emphasized:
Stabilizers: Stabilizers are the unsung heroes of embroidery. They provide the backing needed to support the fabric during stitching, ensuring your designs come out crisp and clean. While there are many options to choose from, Erich suggests simplifying your choices to three types: a medium cutaway, a medium tear-away, and a stabilizer for performance wear. These will cover most of your needs without overcomplicating your process.
Needles: Choosing the right needle is crucial. Embroidery involves a lot of physical interaction between the needle and fabric, so selecting the appropriate needle type and size can make a world of difference. Erich recommends a 75/11 needle for most jobs, but advises using smaller needles (65/9) for fine details, such as small text. The type of needle also matters: sharp needles are ideal for woven fabrics, while ballpoint needles work best for knits to prevent tearing.
Thread: The choice of thread can make or break your embroidery project. Erich highlights the importance of using the correct weight of thread based on the design and fabric. The standard 40-weight thread is suitable for most jobs, while 60-weight thread is ideal for finer details. It’s also important to consider thread material—polyester is often preferred for workwear due to its durability in washing, while rayon provides a more luxurious finish.
Digitizing: The Foundation Of Quality Embroidery
According to Erich, high-quality digitizing is the cornerstone of great embroidery. It’s not just about converting artwork into stitches; it’s about creating a file that understands the nuances of thread, fabric, and the machine. Key points from the discussion on digitizing include:
Outsource If You Need To: While some businesses handle digitizing in-house, outsourcing can be a smart move—especially for those just starting. A good digitizer will ask critical questions about the fabric, size of the design, and needle types to ensure the best result. Erich recommends looking for a digitizer with a solid reputation and good communication skills.
Every Design Needs Specific Digitizing: You can’t just resize a design for different products like you can with a vector image. A left chest design won’t work well on a cap without significant changes because of how embroidery machines run on curved surfaces. Each product type—whether it’s a hat, polo, or jacket—needs its own digitized file for optimal stitching.
Test and Analyze: Even if you have a trusted digitizer, always run a test sew before proceeding with production. Testing allows you to spot potential issues and gives you a chance to provide feedback to the digitizer. “Nothing teaches us more than running a well-made design on the machine and seeing how it works with different fabrics and stabilizers,” Erich emphasized.
How To Get Started With Embroidery
Getting started with embroidery can seem overwhelming, but with the right approach, you can simplify the process and start producing quality work from day one. For those looking to add embroidery to their business or improve their existing setup, Erich provides a roadmap to success:
Start with Simple Projects: It might be tempting to jump straight into complex items like hats or jackets, but Erich recommends starting with simpler, flat projects such as polo shirts or left-chest designs. This allows you to learn the ropes without the added complexity of tricky materials or shapes.
Choose the Right Equipment: You don’t need a massive embroidery setup to get started. Erich suggests beginning with a single-head machine, which is more than capable of handling small orders and test runs. As demand grows, you can scale up to larger, multi-head machines. Many shops start small and outsource larger jobs until they’re ready to invest in bigger equipment.
Focus on Essential Tools: Embroidery involves a variety of materials and tools, but Erich encourages beginners to simplify their setup. Stick to three basic stabilizers: medium cutaway, medium tear-away, and a stabilizer for performance wear. For threads, start with the standard 40-weight for most jobs and use 60-weight for finer details.
Test Everything First: Before jumping into full production, always run a test sew on the same material as the final product. This step allows you to catch any potential issues early, ensuring the design sews correctly and the final result looks professional. As Erich puts it, “Watch that thing run like a hawk” to spot any adjustments that may be needed.
Consider Outsourcing Digitizing: High-quality digitizing is the foundation of great embroidery, but it doesn’t have to be done in-house. Outsourcing your digitizing to professionals can save time and ensure your designs are top-notch. A good digitizer will ask important questions about fabric, design size, and needle preferences, helping you avoid common issues that can arise from poor digitizing.
The Role Of Equipment And Tools
Embroidery success relies heavily on having the right equipment and tools in place. Erich Campbell emphasized the importance of maintaining your machines and investing in tools that simplify the process and reduce errors. Here are the key takeaways:
Consistent Hooping: Using magnetic hoops and hooping boards can drastically improve consistency. Magnetic hoops reduce fabric movement, ensuring that the backing stays in place, which is crucial for accuracy.
Backup Bobbin Cases: Always have spare bobbin cases on hand. Dropping a bobbin case can throw off the tension and cause production delays. If you experience consistent tension issues, changing the bobbin case might be an easy fix.
Needle Types: For most projects, Erich recommends using a 75/11 needle with 40-weight thread. Keep both sharp and ballpoint needles in stock. Use sharp needles for woven fabrics and ballpoint needles for knits to avoid fabric damage.
Machine Maintenance: Regular maintenance is key to avoiding costly machine breakdowns. Clean under the bobbin spring frequently to prevent lint buildup, which can cause tension problems.
Magnetic Hoops: Especially useful for thick fabrics or items like jackets, magnetic hoops make the hooping process easier on the operator’s hands and improve overall accuracy.
Investing in these tools and maintaining your equipment not only improves efficiency but also ensures a higher quality end product, reducing errors and waste in your embroidery process.
The Future Of Embroidery
Embroidery, as a decoration process, isn’t going anywhere. As long as people wear shirts, there will be a need for high-quality embroidery. While the industry has seen advancements, the core process remains largely the same. Investing in the right equipment, learning the ins and outs of digitizing, and maintaining your machines will set you up for long-term success in this evergreen market.
The Takeaway
In an era where customization and personalization are more in demand than ever, embroidery continues to be a staple in the garment decoration industry. As Zack and Erich highlighted in this podcast episode, understanding the basics, investing in the right tools, and continually improving your skills can elevate your embroidery game to new heights. Whether you’re just getting started or looking to refine your process, the advice shared in this episode will help you deliver top-notch embroidery to your clients.
For more insights on embroidery, be sure to catch Erich Campbell’s podcast The Takeup, where he covers everything from digitizing to machine maintenance. And if you’re ready to streamline your entire garment decoration business, DecoNetwork offers an all-in-one solution to help you manage orders, production, online stores, and much more.
